Santa Barbara Climbing: The Gibraltar Area

Location: 34.47706, -119.67986

Description:

The Gibraltar area consists of a number of interesting sandstone formations, which range from vary accessible to some ankle breaking bushwhacking. Gibraltar rock, the top which is accessible from the road side via a short, steep trail offers an awesome view of downtown Santa Barbara, defiantly a worthy destination just for the view. Just down the road lies the Bolt ladder and Toxic Wall which lead into upper Gibraltar rock. The climbs listed below have short approaches, good areas to belay, and are on solid rock.

Climbs:

Gibraltar Rock:

Directions: Use Lat/Log. Then park just past Gibraltar rock. To get to the top take the small trail found right next to the road, up and on to the rock. To get to the bottom of the face walk a bit further down the road to find a ruff trail down along the south side of the rock.
Fire Information: The Rock itself weathered the fire very well with little damage that I can see, but the trail leading around to the south face has been burned. Be carful not to get your gear covered in charcoal as you head around to the face.

Mid-Face ~80ft (5.6) My first climb of the day, a great beginner or warm up route. I set up a top rope on 2 bolts, one bomber, the other's hanger is lose, but seemed to be solid still. Four good lockers and a long sling or cord should get you to the edge. The spot just below the bolts is very favorable considering the surrounding terrain, providing a good belay station. The accessibility, ease of the climb and stunning surroundings make this a perfect spot to take newbies.

Mid-Face 5.8

The Bolt Ladder Area

Directions: Park by Gibraltar rock and walk back down, to the obvious wall on the right hand side of the road.
Fire Information: No damage

The Bolt Ladder ~80ft (5.10-5.11) Originally rated a 5.10 but the consensus seems to be it has gotten a little harder in the 30 years since its first accent. This route has some challenging moves but is very well protected. The large number of good bolts and solid level ground to belay from make this climb great for beginning lead climbers.
California Flake ~80ft (5.8-5.9) Not in Edwards guide, this route which is to the right of the bolt line is suppose to be trad but works nicely as a top rope is some one leads The Bolt Ladder first.