Santa Barbara Climbing: Kryptor (Green Dome)

Location: 34.4788, -119.602

Looking along East Face

Links:

Description: Kryptor also known as "The Green Dome" is a 50-60 ft lump of schist found at the very south end of Camino Cielo. The rock is a good contrast to the sandstone found at almost all of Santa Barbara's other areas. The climbing here ranges from a 5.8 on a large juggy arete, to 5.13b on the almost smooth overhanging West face. This is a good area for intermediate to advanced sport climbers, looking to mix it up from the traditional Santa Barbara sandstone. Rock quality and bolts were both good.

Trail Overgrowth

Getting There: I am posting an extra section on getting there because it is a bit of a drive and then down a not so obvious trail. Use the Lat/Log to get yourself a general idea of where to go. General idea is to get on Gibraltar road, tell the junction with Camino Cielo. Take Cielo south tell it turns to dirt, and go approximately 1 mile from there (use your odometer) to a very wide spot in the road (not really a turn out) and park. You can see Kryptor from the road. Look for a small over grown trail leading over the edge, follow this tell it dead ends at the East face.

Hazards: There is no fire damage in this area, but some other hazards exist. The trail leading down is steep and over grow. Although I have yet to see any in this area, others have encountered rattlesnakes, so be wary.

Climbs:

East Face:

Directions: This is the first face you come to from the trail
Hazards: The start to many of the climbs on this wall can be a little iffy. The wall cuts inward right at the base, leaving little place for good feet and falling can have you twisting an ankle or worse. Careful to the first bolt. Also whoever placed the bolts seems to have done it fairly randomly.

Dancing Fingers (5.10d)

This Side of Paradise (5.10) ~50ft First climb on the wall, farthest bolts left. Follow 4 good bolts up to the top, where 2 anchors lie. The climb isn't quite vertical but small feet and little sloppy crimps make it challenging, stay in close.
Rock the Casbah (5.9) ~50ft Lies just to the right of Paradise, on the second row of bolts. Has 4 bolts bolts to chain anchors. I think this route has either gotten harder than 5.9 due to missing holds or I just didn't get it, other routes seemed easier.
Piece Of the Action (5.10b) ~50ft Is the 3rd set of bolts over. 6 bolts lead to the same chain anchor used in Casbah. Similar in style to Paradise, with some interesting moves over large pockets.
Anti-Bro (5.10a) ~50ft The 5th set of bolts over that moves toward the right. 4 bolts to a good chain anchor.
Dancing Fingers (5.10d) ~50ft 6th set of bolts from the left, its the vertical line farthest to the right. 5 bolts to the chain anchors used in Anit-Bro. This is by far the best climb on the East face. The wall is vertical and the holds more positive, defiantly gave me more of a workout than the other climbs.