Lizards Mouth

Late Bouldering at "The Mouth"

Location : 34.50339, -119.80529

Links:

• Mountainproject.com "Lizards Mouth"
• Rockclimbing.com "Lizards Mouth"
• Summitpost.org "SB Bouldering"

Description: 

"Lizards Mouth" is a large collection of sandstone boulders and formations. Use the lat/log to get there, parking in a turnout just outside of the Winchester Gun Club. Take one of the small trails on the left hand side as you approach the turnout. The sheer number of boulders and climbs here is overwhelming and finding specific climbs can take some time, if your not a regular. I recomend getting the The Falcon Guide, and or Ocean's Eleven Bouldering as well as using supplemental online information if you really want to send some specific problems. This is a busy area where on the weekends, and likely weekdays,  you are sure to come across other climbers and day trippers. 

Climbs:

• The Mouth:
• Directions: Once on the trail keep to the right and work your way around to the high point. Mouth lies just below.
• Fire Info: Area not effected by fire but the high traffic has taken its toll, with glass bottles and some cans littered around. Pack your garbage out with you. Its a 3 minute walk to the car!

• 

  Bouldering on the lower part of mouth 

  The Mouth Traverse (V0+) start on either end and work your way across, lots of good holds. Fun warm up.
• Other Routes (V0-V3) There are a lot of other routes at the mouth that are often hard to distinguish. Make up your own and have fun. Me doing just that to the left.
• Top Roping (5.10-5.11) a few bolts at the top, provide anchors for top roping. The large overhang and decent holds make top roping here a blast. Best done on weekdays or early when the traffic is not as high. 
• Lord of The Flies Boulder 



Ready for "Lord of the Flies"

• Directions: Follow the trail left once it breaks out, and you can see the ocean. Keep going until you see the fairly obvious, tall egg shaped boulder right next to the trail. 
• Lord of the flies (5.10) There are 2 bolts where a top rope should be set up for this climb, but if your looking for a little bit of a thrill, carefully try it out over some good pads. Follow the face up on some small crimps, then move left to the sloping arete. Fun Climb
• Other Areas 
• Here are a list of the other Lizards mouth areas and links to pages about them. I have climbed around in all of these places but take a look at the links.
• Entry Way
• The Big Heat
• Breakfast at Tiffany's
• Femme Fatale Area
• Kelly's Hill
• The Meilee Area
• Sunset Boulevard

Tunnel Boulder

Supplemental Information: Please use these links for more information on routes, ratings and conditions.

• Mountainproject.com "Lizards Mouth"
• Rockclimbing.com "Lizards Mouth"
• Summitpost.org "SB Bouldering"